Tuesday, September 1st, 2009...12:40 am
The Unintended Consequences of Manufacturing in Africa
Earlier in August, the UK’s Sunday Times published a long look at garment manufacturing in Lesotho… and it was pretty scary. The scariest part? That this is where Gap’s Product Red is manufactured, initiated by Bono with the best of intentions, and yet so many adverse effects have gone on outside the factories. It’s a must-read.
Gap’s decision to develop the production of jeans and T-shirts in Lesotho had heralded an era of opportunity for one of the world’s poorest nations, but a Sunday Times investigation has exposed an unforeseen consequence of that commitment — the dumping of tons of waste, much of it dangerous, at unsecured municipal sites.
Over the past 12 months the child rag pickers have been attracted to garment dumps by the denim and plastic thrown away by a Taiwanese supplier whose clients include both Gap and Levi Strauss.
Such is the ubiquity of denim and cotton waste in Lesotho that garment refuse has replaced charcoal as cooking fuel. Alarmingly, for the two San Francisco-based firms, the waste dumped by their suppliers Nien Hsing and Formosa Textile — both part of the Nien Hsing Fashion Group — includes harmful chemicals, needles and razors. …
It gets worse, like a blue-stained river and chronic breathing issues. Read the full article for a well-researched look behind the scenes.
Both Gap and Levi’s know about the situation and at the time of the article were looking into it, and Gap was doing so with an independent environmental organization. I trust that the cause of the problem will be appropriately cared for, but this once again makes me question the impacts of the “industrial supply chain” in any context, whether companies are being transparent about their practices or not.
Again, quoting Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma, but changing the word “eat” to “buy”: “To (buy) with a fuller consciousness of all that is at stake may sound like a burden, but in practice few things in life can afford quite as much satisfaction. By comparison, the pleasures of (buying) industrially, which is to say (buying) in ignorance, are fleeting.”
5 Comments
September 1st, 2009 at 8:12 am
Ugh. You would think something with such a socially-aware imprimateur would actually KEEP AN EYE on their supply line, and make sure it is as ethical as they claim, because these things always come out.
Terrible.
September 1st, 2009 at 9:50 am
The Gap is not a responsible company, nor have they ever been one. This kind of hideous is par for the course when it comes to the brand and its subsidiaries. Read more here:
http://www.coopamerica.org/programs/responsibleshopper/company.cfm?id=229
Good intentions aren’t worth much without the necessary follow-through. Something that often seems to be the downfall of most (all?) celebrity endorsed charities. Then again, with celebrities like these: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-400188/St-Bono-hypocrite.html, I would think some sort of downfall would be imminent.
Now for some coffee and a cheerier worldview.
September 3rd, 2009 at 12:13 am
Thanks guys, and great links, Brad. I really try to keep an optimistic view of the industry in general (especially in defense of those who can’t afford more than what’s on Gap’s sale rack)… but sometimes it’s not even worth trying. Point is, it pays to pay attention to what it is we’re buying!
September 3rd, 2009 at 12:26 am
Gosh.
September 4th, 2009 at 11:30 pm
I read this recent post and wanted to respond.
(RED) is deeply concerned by the allegations made against some factories in Lesotho, one of which has produced GAP (PRODUCT) RED t-shirts in the past, and we take them very seriously. GAP (PRODUCT) RED t-shirts have not been made at the Precious Garments Factory in Lesotho for some time and no future production of GAP (PRODUCT) RED clothing will be considered there until these issues are resolved. (RED) strongly opposes malpractice in any form including adverse environmental impact on local communities and their natural resources.
Sincerely,
Julie Cordua
(RED)
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